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RE: Help. Live axle Fury.
by Gordon Griffin
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Dermot
I would fit rod ends on the bottom arms (more heavily loaded under acceleration) and bushes on the top arms. If you fit rod ends one side and bushes the other you risk the axle skewing under power which will give some odd handling.
Generally axles are designed to be straight - 0 toe and 0 camber, but I've had up to 1 degree on Ford and Ital axles by cutting and welding the tubes near the diff with no problem - the splines take up the misalignment OK. For track work, a little rear camber may be useful, but I wouldnt bother with toe.
Strip the axle for welding there wiill be grit and spatter going everywhere and you dont want that churning around the CWP.
Lightening or strengthening will depend on the power you are putting down and what the axle's like to start with. I'd be tempted to take out anything heavy and brace the axle and brackets with tube, which wil llikely be stronger and lighter. If you've ripped out brackets already (assuming this wasnt as a result of an immediately preceding failure of talent) then some strengthening is problably a good thing.
G
To: bike-engined-cars@...: dermotmc@...: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 03:52:07 +0000Subject: [bike-engined-cars] Help. Live axle Fury.
Hello all. I have a live axled Fury that has s seriously damaged rear axle. As I am in the US and Escort parts are very rare over here. I am considering using a Toyota or Alfa Romeo rear axle that have similar track widths. I have no jigs and will be transferring the dimensions from my axle. One of the arms that carry the right trailing arms has torn away from the axle so I will not have the accuracy I would like.I am thinking of using rod ends on the right side to give me a modicum of adjustability to compensate for setup errors. I understand that there is a binding in the rear should one use 4 rod ends on both sides but I think it will be OK with one side only. Am I correct?I understand all dimensions are critical but where should I be particularly accurate. Any tips on how to approach this and what toe and camber numbers should I shoot for?When welding the axle should I strip it or does the extra material help stabilize and help minimize distortion?I found seem to be bottoming the rear springs (180 lb. 8" long springs, 12" shocks, about 3" travel) causing the car to oversteer suddenly and spin out. Should I install a 9" spring or change over to a longer shock?I will appreciate any feedback and advice.Thanks,Dermot
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would fit rod ends on the bottom arms (more heavily loaded under acceleration) and bushes on the top arms. If you fit rod ends one side and bushes the other you risk the axle skewing under power which will give some odd handling.
Generally axles are designed to be straight - 0 toe and 0 camber, but I've had up to 1 degree on Ford and Ital axles by cutting and welding the tubes near the diff with no problem - the splines take up the misalignment OK. For track work, a little rear camber may be useful, but I wouldnt bother with toe.
Strip the axle for welding there wiill be grit and spatter going everywhere and you dont want that churning around the CWP.
Lightening or strengthening will depend on the power you are putting down and what the axle's like to start with. I'd be tempted to take out anything heavy and brace the axle and brackets with tube, which wil llikely be stronger and lighter. If you've ripped out brackets already (assuming this wasnt as a result of an immediately preceding failure of talent) then some strengthening is problably a good thing.
G
To: bike-engined-cars@...: dermotmc@...: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 03:52:07 +0000Subject: [bike-engined-cars] Help. Live axle Fury.
Hello all. I have a live axled Fury that has s seriously damaged rear axle. As I am in the US and Escort parts are very rare over here. I am considering using a Toyota or Alfa Romeo rear axle that have similar track widths. I have no jigs and will be transferring the dimensions from my axle. One of the arms that carry the right trailing arms has torn away from the axle so I will not have the accuracy I would like.I am thinking of using rod ends on the right side to give me a modicum of adjustability to compensate for setup errors. I understand that there is a binding in the rear should one use 4 rod ends on both sides but I think it will be OK with one side only. Am I correct?I understand all dimensions are critical but where should I be particularly accurate. Any tips on how to approach this and what toe and camber numbers should I shoot for?When welding the axle should I strip it or does the extra material help stabilize and help minimize distortion?I found seem to be bottoming the rear springs (180 lb. 8" long springs, 12" shocks, about 3" travel) causing the car to oversteer suddenly and spin out. Should I install a 9" spring or change over to a longer shock?I will appreciate any feedback and advice.Thanks,Dermot
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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