I'd try improvising the connection with a 6 or 12V battery and jumper
cables to see which way the motor will turn. Jackstand the drive wheels
and chock the non-drive wheels of course.
We do the big version of that all the time at the railway museum, test a
traction motor using a welder...
Given the dramatic difference in wire size sepex vs. series, if you can
peek inside the motor with a mirror or something at the internal
connections to the S1 and S2 posts, that should tell all.
What would happen if you tried to series-connect a sepex motor? My
guess is, very little...
Robert
Peter Eckhoff wrote:
> Hello Robert,
>
> We were trying to find out ahead of time the proper way to cable a GE
> series motor in a Fiero. We are down to our last two lugs and we did not
> want to waste lugs by cabling it the opposite way. I understand that
> Honda rotate in the opposite direction to go forward but we were not
> sure of a Fiero.
>
> Also, we wanted to confirm that we had a GE Series motor and not a Sepex.
>
> We are trying to finish this car up so we could drive it in a parade
> next weekend.
>
>
>
> Robert MacDowell wrote:
>> Peter Eckhoff wrote:
>>
>>> Hello EVDL,
>>>
>>> We are recabling a Fiero and we want to do it right.
>>>
>>> What is the proper motor cabling sequence for a Fiero with a GE Series
>>> motor and a Curtis controller (e.g. B+ on Curtis to A1 on motor, A2 on
>>> Motor to S? on motor, etc.)?
>>>
>> It's a standard series wound motor, right? A1 A2 S1 S2?
>>
>> Is there any reason it shouldn't be wired in the conventional way one
>> wires all series-wound motors... Jumper one of the A's to one of the
>> S's. Connect B+ and B- to the remaining terminals. Then swap S1 and
>> S2 if the motor runs the wrong direction.
>>
>> And correct me if I'm wrong, if the motor doesn't have interpoles, it's
>> optimized to spin in one direction efficiently. You had to get that
>> right at the time of physical installation. You can't correct it by
>> swapping wires... right?
>>
>> Robert
>>
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>
>
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