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Re: Help. Live axle Fury.
by Mike Lackey-2
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You could have rod ends on one end of the link and a bushing at the other, but don't do rod ends on one side of the car and bushings on the other.
That will change your handling characteristics depending on whether you accelerate or decelerate.
I don't know much about the Fury (I also live in the states) but you may want to investigate using an axle from a '84-'87 RWD Corolla. They used a 4-link rear suspension and who knows, maybe it would save you some welding. The Corollas are popular for racing and the axles are also used in Legends and Dwarf cars so there are a wide variety of parts available for them.
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: ottocycle1 <dermotmc@...>
To: bike-engined-cars@...
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 8:52:07 PM
Subject: [bike-engined-cars] Help. Live axle Fury.
Hello all.
I have a live axled Fury that has s seriously damaged rear axle. As I am in the US and Escort
parts are very rare over here. I am considering using a Toyota or Alfa Romeo rear axle that
have similar track widths. I have no jigs and will be transferring the dimensions from my
axle. One of the arms that carry the right trailing arms has torn away from the axle so I will
not have the accuracy I would like.
I am thinking of using rod ends on the right side to give me a modicum of adjustability to
compensate for setup errors. I understand that there is a binding in the rear should one use
4 rod ends on both sides but I think it will be OK with one side only. Am I correct?
I understand all dimensions are critical but where should I be particularly accurate. Any tips
on how to approach this and what toe and camber numbers should I shoot for?
When welding the axle should I strip it or does the extra material help stabilize and help
minimize distortion?
I found seem to be bottoming the rear springs (180 lb. 8" long springs, 12" shocks, about 3"
travel) causing the car to oversteer suddenly and spin out. Should I install a 9" spring or
change over to a longer shock?
I will appreciate any feedback and advice.
Thanks,
Dermot
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
That will change your handling characteristics depending on whether you accelerate or decelerate.
I don't know much about the Fury (I also live in the states) but you may want to investigate using an axle from a '84-'87 RWD Corolla. They used a 4-link rear suspension and who knows, maybe it would save you some welding. The Corollas are popular for racing and the axles are also used in Legends and Dwarf cars so there are a wide variety of parts available for them.
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: ottocycle1 <dermotmc@...>
To: bike-engined-cars@...
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 8:52:07 PM
Subject: [bike-engined-cars] Help. Live axle Fury.
Hello all.
I have a live axled Fury that has s seriously damaged rear axle. As I am in the US and Escort
parts are very rare over here. I am considering using a Toyota or Alfa Romeo rear axle that
have similar track widths. I have no jigs and will be transferring the dimensions from my
axle. One of the arms that carry the right trailing arms has torn away from the axle so I will
not have the accuracy I would like.
I am thinking of using rod ends on the right side to give me a modicum of adjustability to
compensate for setup errors. I understand that there is a binding in the rear should one use
4 rod ends on both sides but I think it will be OK with one side only. Am I correct?
I understand all dimensions are critical but where should I be particularly accurate. Any tips
on how to approach this and what toe and camber numbers should I shoot for?
When welding the axle should I strip it or does the extra material help stabilize and help
minimize distortion?
I found seem to be bottoming the rear springs (180 lb. 8" long springs, 12" shocks, about 3"
travel) causing the car to oversteer suddenly and spin out. Should I install a 9" spring or
change over to a longer shock?
I will appreciate any feedback and advice.
Thanks,
Dermot
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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