Solder paste in a syringe

[James Newtons Massmind]

Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?

I found this:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
%3d has anyone used this stuff?

I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
(mouth).

I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
part down, but I'd rather have the control.

And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.

James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
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[Richard Prosser]

James,

I find it works best to put a (very) small blob on just one pad.
Solder the part to this using tweezers & an iron, and then solder the
other pad(s) normally. Go back and touch up the first pad afterwards,
if required. This way you have a flat pad surface to work with & only
have to worry about one pad at a time.

Watch out for lead poisoning unless you're using lead-free solder!

RP

2008/6/10 James Newton <jamesnewton@...>:

> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
>
>
>
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[Bob Blick-4]

On Mon, 9 Jun 2008 15:07:39 -0700, "James Newton"
<jamesnewton@...> said:
> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process,
>

Yes, the Wahl brand solder paste is exactly what you need - rework may
even be the target audience for it. Melts and flows well.

Cheers,

Bob

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[Carey Fisher - NCS]

I don't think you need paste for rework.  I only use paste (Mouser stuff is
ok) when I'm stuffing a new board that I'm gonna stick in my toaster oven
for reflow.

Otherwise, use small dia solder (.016??) when you actually need solder.
Usually, there is enough solder left on the pads where you won't need any
extra.

I don't use a soldering iron to unsolder SMT parts (well, not very often).
I use a cheap hot air rework station from Marlin P. Jones.  Works great!
You lay the board down on an ESD mat or clamp it in a "second-hand" or vise,
hit the part's pads with hot air while holding it with tweezers and gently
pulling until it slides off the pads.

To install a new part, just hold the part in place on the solder covered
pads, and use the hot air or soldering iron to reflow the solder on each
lead.  With ICs, reflow one pin to position the part and then hit the rest
of the pins.

10 minutes practice and you won't want to work on through-hole boards
again!!!

Carey

On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:07 PM, James Newton <jamesnewton@...>
wrote:

> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
>
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d<http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d%3d>has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
> PIC/PICList <http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786PIC/PICList> FAQ:
> http://www.piclist.com
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>
>
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[James Nick Sears-2]

I tend to start out with no extra solder on the pads (just the normal
tinning from the factory) and just a bit of solder on the tip of the
iron.  Hold the part where you want it with tweezers and just tap one
pin with the bit of solder on the iron.  It will almost instantly
stick, holding the parts down.  Then I flux and solder the other pins
normally, touching the initial pin briefly with flux around to clean
the joint and all is good.

Sometimes I flux beforehand which sometimes means I don't have to
clean the first joint after I solder it, but sometimes I don't because
it means a lot more tweezer cleaning to keep small (0402/0603)
resistors from sticking to the tweezers which is REALLY annoying!  Try
it both ways and see what works for you.

I don't think paste+iron is a recommended combo.  I have paste and a
hot air pencil that I use if I have large numbers of repeating
components to solder in one shot, but I still go to the iron and super
fine solder for the bulk of my work.

Good luck.

-n.


On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:29 PM, Richard Prosser <rhprosser@...> wrote:

> James,
>
> I find it works best to put a (very) small blob on just one pad.
> Solder the part to this using tweezers & an iron, and then solder the
> other pad(s) normally. Go back and touch up the first pad afterwards,
> if required. This way you have a flat pad surface to work with & only
> have to worry about one pad at a time.
>
> Watch out for lead poisoning unless you're using lead-free solder!
>
> RP
>
> 2008/6/10 James Newton <jamesnewton@...>:
>> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>>
>> I found this:
>> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
>> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>>
>> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
>> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
>> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
>> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
>> (mouth).
>>
>> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
>> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>>
>> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
>> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
>> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
>> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>>
>> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
>> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
>> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
>> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
>>
>>
>>
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>> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist
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[John Ferrell-2]

I bought some from
http://www.zianet.com/erg/ShopSolderPaste.html
Due to changing circumstances I have not and probably will not get around to
using it before it gets too old.

The embossing tool from Hobby Lobby mentioned on the site works very well.

John Ferrell    W8CCW

"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do
nothing." -- Edmund Burke
http://DixieNC.US

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Newton" <jamesnewton@...>
To: "'Microcontroller discussion list - Public.'" <piclist@...>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 6:07 PM
Subject: [BUY] Solder paste in a syringe

> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
>
>
>
> --
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> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist
>

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[Vic Fraenckel]

James Newton wrote:
> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>  
James,

Try here:
http://www.zianet.com/erg/ShopSolderPaste.html

HTH

Vic


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[Peter Todd-2]

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

On Mon, Jun 09, 2008 at 03:07:39PM -0700, James Newton wrote:
> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?

I use the Kester brand stuff from digikey myself. I've used both the
No-Clean and Water Soluble stuff, the former leaves a bit of clear but
visible residue, while the latter really does wash off with water.

That said... In my last job I got access to a microscope for the first
time, and also for the first time noticed a big gotcha with solder paste
and soldering irons. Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
thousands of tiny little balls. Problem is, on an actual board they
don't all melt... Granted, these are some very tiny balls, maybe 1/10th
the size of a typical SOIC lead, if even that. But get some clumping
together and migrating to the wrong place and I'm sure they could end up
shorting out something. Baking the board in an oven doesn't seem to have
this problem to the same degree, as they all tend to melt and migrate to
bulk solder globs. All my personal stuff has been to date done without
solder masks, which would only make the problem worse, though at least
my feature sizes are always pretty big. (15mil trace widths/clearances
minimum usually)


I ended up having to trash three of my Alternate Pace clocks due to this
problem, or at least a varient. I was soldering down a lot of SOICs, 14x
per board, by first running a thin strip of solder paste along the pads,
placing them, and then using an iron to melt the paste. (The boards were
a too big to simply place in my toaster oven and have them evenly heat.)

What happened was that over time some of the leds would come on
unexpectedly, from current sneaking it's way accross adjacent pins.
Applying heat to the pins fixed some of the boards, but it was obvious
that unmelted paste was causing shorts at the back of the pins. I've
probably had, or nearly had the problem before, but it was only really
aparent here due to how many connections were involved, and the
relatively large number of Alternate Pace clocks I've made.

Now where I'm working I've been doing a decent amount of soldering by
putting a little dab of solder down, applying flux, positioning the chip
and melting that solder to hold things down. Haven't had a problem
since, but the boards I've working with are probably tougher than what
you describe.

> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.

- --
http://petertodd.org 'peter'[:-1]@petertodd.org
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[Vasile Surducan-2]

Try this one:

http://www.kester.com/en-us/products/prodcat_detail.aspx?pid=32


http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=m5JL4TdtMhzZZL0dvDxgnQ%3d%3d

You need one hand, dispense the paste, apply the SMD, wait 10-20
minutes, blow gently hot air on the surface. Difficult with 0402 and
0201 but easy with the rest.

NOTE: ask for fresh solder paste, I have one year old seringe keept in
refrigerator and is still usable if it's used on hurry (untill the
paste become warm).

Vasile


On 6/9/08, James Newton <jamesnewton@...> wrote:

> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
>
>
>
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[Tamas Rudnai]

> That said... In my last job I got access to a microscope for the first
> time, and also for the first time noticed a big gotcha with solder paste
> and soldering irons. Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
> thousands of tiny little balls.
...

This happened to me too (I could see the little balls using a 20x jewellery
loupe), however, I knew the paste was relatively old. When it was new it
made a perfect job though, so your paste might has just gone or the quality
might not so good. I've read somewhere that it is possible to "renew" solder
paste using an ultrasonic cleaner, so they put the synergy in it (without
water) and then the ultrasonic sound mixes up the paste - not sure if I
remember well the method and never even tried, however,  may worth to try it
out once.

Tamas



On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 2:38 AM, Peter Todd <pete@...> wrote:

> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> On Mon, Jun 09, 2008 at 03:07:39PM -0700, James Newton wrote:
> > Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
> >
> > I found this:
> >
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> > %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I use the Kester brand stuff from digikey myself. I've used both the
> No-Clean and Water Soluble stuff, the former leaves a bit of clear but
> visible residue, while the latter really does wash off with water.
>
> That said... In my last job I got access to a microscope for the first
> time, and also for the first time noticed a big gotcha with solder paste
> and soldering irons. Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
> thousands of tiny little balls. Problem is, on an actual board they
> don't all melt... Granted, these are some very tiny balls, maybe 1/10th
> the size of a typical SOIC lead, if even that. But get some clumping
> together and migrating to the wrong place and I'm sure they could end up
> shorting out something. Baking the board in an oven doesn't seem to have
> this problem to the same degree, as they all tend to melt and migrate to
> bulk solder globs. All my personal stuff has been to date done without
> solder masks, which would only make the problem worse, though at least
> my feature sizes are always pretty big. (15mil trace widths/clearances
> minimum usually)
>
>
> I ended up having to trash three of my Alternate Pace clocks due to this
> problem, or at least a varient. I was soldering down a lot of SOICs, 14x
> per board, by first running a thin strip of solder paste along the pads,
> placing them, and then using an iron to melt the paste. (The boards were
> a too big to simply place in my toaster oven and have them evenly heat.)
>
> What happened was that over time some of the leds would come on
> unexpectedly, from current sneaking it's way accross adjacent pins.
> Applying heat to the pins fixed some of the boards, but it was obvious
> that unmelted paste was causing shorts at the back of the pins. I've
> probably had, or nearly had the problem before, but it was only really
> aparent here due to how many connections were involved, and the
> relatively large number of Alternate Pace clocks I've made.
>
> Now where I'm working I've been doing a decent amount of soldering by
> putting a little dab of solder down, applying flux, positioning the chip
> and melting that solder to hold things down. Haven't had a problem
> since, but the boards I've working with are probably tougher than what
> you describe.
>
> > I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> > course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process,
> especially
> > the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a
> pair
> > of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> > (mouth).
> >
> > I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold
> the
> > part down, but I'd rather have the control.
> >
> > And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> > down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> > heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> > on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> - --
> http://petertodd.org 'peter'[:-1]@petertodd.org
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
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> q5Cnh38KMYBtCquLwai++H8=
> =UMPY
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[Peter Todd-2]

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
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On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:17:31PM +0100, Tamas Rudnai wrote:

> > That said... In my last job I got access to a microscope for the first
> > time, and also for the first time noticed a big gotcha with solder paste
> > and soldering irons. Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
> > thousands of tiny little balls.
> ...
>
> This happened to me too (I could see the little balls using a 20x jewellery
> loupe), however, I knew the paste was relatively old. When it was new it
> made a perfect job though, so your paste might has just gone or the quality
> might not so good. I've read somewhere that it is possible to "renew" solder
> paste using an ultrasonic cleaner, so they put the synergy in it (without
> water) and then the ultrasonic sound mixes up the paste - not sure if I
> remember well the method and never even tried, however,  may worth to try it
> out once.

That could very well work. I've noticed that the tubes of Kester
No-Clean that I've bought go bad by having the solder settle out into a
solid block, eventually plugging the tube about about 6-8 months. The
Water Soluable stuff just gets more runny.

Thickness would definetely be a part of that sort of failure for sure,
on the other hand, it's also quite difficult to precisely apply paste by
hand, and I find it tends to instantly go runny the second the soldering
iron gets put on it. In a standard reflow application much of the binder
gets dried out first, so you're left with a fragile, but relatively
solid, mass before the solder actually melts. At least, that's what
seems to happen in my toaster oven. ;)

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[M. Adam Davis-2]

I get mine from Digikey.  I used to diligently recap it and place it
in the fridge after use, but got bored of that and it's been simply
sitting on my bench with the needle always in place for two years now.

It's not as easy to push out as it used to be (the paste is thicker)
but when I press the plunger I always get some out - it never seems to
be permanently dry or stuck.

I've assembled boards under microscope with it and there is an issue
with stray balls, but with a microscope it's never an issue.  If you
don't use a microscope I suggest you get a toothbrush and give the
boards a good scrubbing (you have to remove flux anyway...) and the
problem with the balls is usually resolved.

But yes, doing SMT with solder paste is much faster and easier (for
me) than with fine wire solder.

It's not a spectacular stop motion film, but here I am using solder
paste to assemble SMT boards:

http://ubasics.com/build/

-Adam

On 6/9/08, James Newton <jamesnewton@...> wrote:

> Were does one get good solder paste in a syringe these days?
>
> I found this:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=wT7LY0lnAe2r5UPJoeJJnQ%3d
> %3d has anyone used this stuff?
>
> I'm just doing some SMT re-work (without real SMT tools or experience, of
> course ;) ) and I'm hoping this will help simplify the process, especially
> the part where I'm holding the iron in one hand, the part down with a pair
> of tweezers in the other, and holding the solder to it with my third hand
> (mouth).
>
> I know I could make a two legged, plus a pick, weighted thingy to hold the
> part down, but I'd rather have the control.
>
> And I could solder blob the pads, then flux, place the part and solder
> down... but these boards are really weak and I've already killed a couple
> heating the pads twice. I'm thinking a bit of solder paste, hold the part
> on, touch it quickly with the iron on each pad and done.
>
> James Newton: PICList webmaster/Admin
> mailto:jamesnewton@...  1-619-652-0593 phone
> http://www.piclist.com/member/JMN-EFP-786
> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
>
>
>
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[Artie Jones]

Yes, this is correct, old paste looks good, but it doesn't work well,
as noted below.

My first experience with solder paste was using a 'sample' from EFD.
They give you an enormous tube of it-way more than any 'normal'
non-industrial user needs for a year or more. When it begins to show
signs of not working well, fill the ultrasonic bath with tap water,
and drop the syringe in-needle and all. I used that sample from EFD
for 8 years, with no special treatment other than the ultrasonic bath
from time to time.

As far as I know, EFD still offers teh same enormous sized 'sample'
for free, although I haven't re-ordered yet.

Enjoy.

Art

>> Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
>> thousands of tiny little balls.
> ...
>
> This happened to me too (I could see the little balls using a 20x jewellery
> loupe), however, I knew the paste was relatively old. When it was new it
> made a perfect job though, so your paste might has just gone or the quality
> might not so good. I've read somewhere that it is possible to "renew" solder
> paste using an ultrasonic cleaner, so they put the synergy in it (without
> water) and then the ultrasonic sound mixes up the paste - not sure if I
> remember well the method and never even tried, however,  may worth to try it
> out once.
>
> Tamas
>
>

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[Adam Field]

I come across ultrasonic cleaners occasionally, but I don't know how they
feel or look while operating. How do you check them for operation? I know
you can't run them dry.

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 1:19 PM, Artie Jones <ttrraabbeemm@...> wrote:

> When it begins to show
> signs of not working well, fill the ultrasonic bath with tap water,
> and drop the syringe in-needle and all. I used that sample from EFD
> for 8 years, with no special treatment other than the ultrasonic bath
> from time to time.
>
> As far as I know, EFD still offers teh same enormous sized 'sample'
> for free, although I haven't re-ordered yet.
>
> Enjoy.
>
> Art
>

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[M. Adam Davis-2]

Hey, there's a good reason to get that cheap one from harbor freight!

-Adam

On 6/11/08, Artie Jones <ttrraabbeemm@...> wrote:

> Yes, this is correct, old paste looks good, but it doesn't work well,
> as noted below.
>
> My first experience with solder paste was using a 'sample' from EFD.
> They give you an enormous tube of it-way more than any 'normal'
> non-industrial user needs for a year or more. When it begins to show
> signs of not working well, fill the ultrasonic bath with tap water,
> and drop the syringe in-needle and all. I used that sample from EFD
> for 8 years, with no special treatment other than the ultrasonic bath
> from time to time.
>
> As far as I know, EFD still offers teh same enormous sized 'sample'
> for free, although I haven't re-ordered yet.
>
> Enjoy.
>
> Art
>
> >> Basically, the stuff comes from the tube as
> >> thousands of tiny little balls.
> > ...
> >
> > This happened to me too (I could see the little balls using a 20x jewellery
> > loupe), however, I knew the paste was relatively old. When it was new it
> > made a perfect job though, so your paste might has just gone or the quality
> > might not so good. I've read somewhere that it is possible to "renew" solder
> > paste using an ultrasonic cleaner, so they put the synergy in it (without
> > water) and then the ultrasonic sound mixes up the paste - not sure if I
> > remember well the method and never even tried, however,  may worth to try it
> > out once.
> >
> > Tamas
> >
> >
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[Art-15]

Drop a pinch or 2 of any kind of powder on the surface, if it dissipates instantly when the switch is turned on, it's working.

They make a racket when they are working, but most operate at 40 KHz, so the sound a human can hear is not a good indicator.

Once in awhile they are found at yard sales. Test them on the spot and offer $5 for it. Most people don't have any idea what they are, so the chances are that the first offer will be accepted.

Worth every penny-I use mine for cleaning flux off the boards, even the non water soluble flux is removed fast.

Your local jewelers shop will have one, they get big bucks for cleaning jewelry in them-but they never reveal how it is done to the paying customer>>:


Art

>From: Adam Field <adam@...>
>Date: 2008/06/11 Wed PM 03:20:22 CDT
>To: "Microcontroller discussion list - Public." <piclist@...>
>Subject: Re: [BUY] Solder paste in a syringe

>I come across ultrasonic cleaners occasionally, but I don't know how they
>feel or look while operating. How do you check them for operation? I know
>you can't run them dry.
>
>On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 1:19 PM, Artie Jones <ttrraabbeemm@...> wrote:
>
>> When it begins to show
>> signs of not working well, fill the ultrasonic bath with tap water,
>> and drop the syringe in-needle and all. I used that sample from EFD
>> for 8 years, with no special treatment other than the ultrasonic bath
>> from time to time.
>>
>> As far as I know, EFD still offers teh same enormous sized 'sample'
>> for free, although I haven't re-ordered yet.
>>
>> Enjoy.
>>
>> Art
>>
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[Andrew Burchill-2]

>
> Worth every penny-I use mine for cleaning flux off the boards, even the non
> water soluble flux is removed fast.
>
> Your local jewelers shop will have one, they get big bucks for cleaning
> jewelry in them-but they never reveal how it is done to the paying
> customer>>:


Hi Art,
what solution do you use when cleaning PCBs ?

Andrew
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[Artie Jones]

Hi Andrew,

I throw my completed and tested new boards straight into the
ultrasonic bath, with plain water. I usually leave then there for 30
seconds.

It removes any and all flux, even the flux left residue underneath the
chips (on smt packages). It works great to remove the flus, even if
the flux is not the water soluble type.

It sure beats the heck out of drowning the board with toxic and
expensive flux remover::>

Enjoy.

Art




On 6/11/08, Andrew Burchill <dustooff@...> wrote:

>>
>> Worth every penny-I use mine for cleaning flux off the boards, even the
>> non
>> water soluble flux is removed fast.
>>
>> Your local jewelers shop will have one, they get big bucks for cleaning
>> jewelry in them-but they never reveal how it is done to the paying
>> customer>>:
>
>
> Hi Art,
> what solution do you use when cleaning PCBs ?
>
> Andrew
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[Alan B. Pearce]

>I throw my completed and tested new boards straight into the
>ultrasonic bath, with plain water. I usually leave then there for 30
>seconds.
>
>It removes any and all flux, even the flux left residue underneath the
>chips (on smt packages). It works great to remove the flus, even if
>the flux is not the water soluble type.
>
>It sure beats the heck out of drowning the board with toxic and
>expensive flux remover::>

However ultrasonic baths are also a known destroyer of chips. What appears
to happen is that the ultrasonic vibration seems to shake bond wires off
chips.

I know that ultrasonic cleaning is banned for anything we fly in space
because of known problems induced by ultrasonic cleaning.

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[Matthew Bajor]

I worked a few summers ago at an aerospace contractor doing alot of SMT
work. If I needed to touch something up, I used 3-Propanol to thin out the
flux and sometimes the paste. For really fine work, I would thin the flux
with the propanol, but mix it in with a little solder paste. The heating
action is imparted better on the solder balls of the paste, almost negating
what would be a sort of surface tension. I've never heard of the ultra-sonic
method but I'm guessing it could work in the short term.

Matt Bajor

On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 4:11 AM, Alan B. Pearce <A.B.Pearce@...> wrote:

> >I throw my completed and tested new boards straight into the
> >ultrasonic bath, with plain water. I usually leave then there for 30
> >seconds.
> >
> >It removes any and all flux, even the flux left residue underneath the
> >chips (on smt packages). It works great to remove the flus, even if
> >the flux is not the water soluble type.
> >
> >It sure beats the heck out of drowning the board with toxic and
> >expensive flux remover::>
>
> However ultrasonic baths are also a known destroyer of chips. What appears
> to happen is that the ultrasonic vibration seems to shake bond wires off
> chips.
>
> I know that ultrasonic cleaning is banned for anything we fly in space
> because of known problems induced by ultrasonic cleaning.
>
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