Nabble - Triumph Trophy

RE: Re: Which shade of blue is this?

2009-12-23T16:46:12Z

> I'm fairly sure it is called Nightshade Blue.
>
> Ron

Sorry Ron, you're out! All the other respondents have gone for Pacific Blue.
:-)

Seriously, thanks to all who have replied - I think I've got it now.

Cheers!

IanE

Re: Which shade of blue is this?

2009-12-23T16:36:31Z

I'm fairly sure it is called Nightshade Blue.

Ron

a. Which shade of blue is this?
Posted by: "Ian Ellison" ian@... ianell
Date: Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:01 am ((PST))

Can anyone confirm for me which shade of blue this is,
http://www.ianellison.org.uk/trophy1200.jpg
-

Ron Sands
'02 T100, '96 Trophy 900, '69 T120R, '67 T120R
sandsron2@...
Hamburg, PA
"Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly!"

Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-23T13:57:41Z

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., "JackM" <jackon2wheelz@...> wrote:
>
> Ed, please let us know how that goes. I am curious if it works. I suspect it will not.....
>
> All said, I DO NOT KNOW the actual values of the existing bulb or the LED array you are going to install.
> Jack
> Placerville, CA
>
Hi Jack - compared to a filament bulb which, for 21W will draw 1.75 amps from the 12 volt supply, the LEDs will only draw around 20mA each - so the additional current draw won't even be noticeable in the scheme of things. They simply connect in parallel with the existing bulbs.

I already have small white LED arrays as additional daytime running lights and will be getting some amber repeaters next - easy to fit and minimal impact on the existing electrics.

Have fun

Philip

Turbulence

2009-12-23T12:31:24Z

Tomorrow if my local supplier is still about I am going to buy some....

screen trim

hopefully you can follow the link...

or something similar maybe of a smaller profile.

In anticipation of a winter shake-out (when the snow disappears) after dismantling the front end.

I have been looking at the screen "addons" and have hankered about cutting up my older smaller screen to make my own (may still) slot-wing.

But before I do I fancy trying to create a bit of my own turbulence to try to gauge the effect.

Fingers crossed I won't have to buy 40m worth - or its back to plan B - because I could do with a smoother ride into a head wind

RE: First ride impressions

2009-12-23T12:13:19Z

the instrument panel is fitted onto 4 rubber storks approx 8mm diameter and 25mm long they are bonded to a small bolt - this tend to shear off but is easily glued back on -otherwise it will stay in place regardless on all its connectors in any event

Ian Ellison wrote:

Thanks!

Ian

> -----Original Message-----
> From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Dean Barger
> Sent: 12 December 2009 15:26
> To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] First ride impressions
>
>
> yes...the instrument panel does 'float'
> www.clearview.com i think is the link..does make a nice XL
> screen with 'eye-holes'
> --some swear by the 'ruffle' edging that can be added to the
> stock screen www.saeng.com i think
> look in the 'files' section for adding a temp gauge -- the temp
> indicator in the instrument has been know to blip on and off on
> hot days... it doesnt really like a lot of slow in-town stuff.
>
> peruse the files section to solve all the little niggles.
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, Ian Ellison <ian@ianellison.org.uk> wrote:
>
> From: Ian Ellison <ian@ianellison.org.uk>
> Subject: [TriumphTrophy] First ride impressions
> To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 8:57 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all who have given advice on my battery size
> problem. New battery
>
> hasn't arrived yet, but I put the old one on charge yesterday (though
>
> starting from 0.2V I wasn't expecting anything from it!) and it got up to
>
> 13.2V and held over 13V overnight.
>
>
>
> Fitted it, pumped up the tyres, and it fired up very easily. Having made
>
> sure nothing was about to fall off I then went for a short (10 mile) test
>
> ride.
>
>
>
> I have to say I'm very impressed! It fits me very nicely - a big
> lardy bike
>
> for a big lardy bloke!
>
>
>
> The bike is very smooth, very easy handling - obviously not as
> responsive as
>
> the Sprint Sport used to be but turns very easily and on slimy muddy back
>
> lanes it was very sure footed. Front brake might need bleeding -
> quite a lot
>
> of free play in the lever but they work well when applied.
>
>
>
> A couple of observations - first the flip up screen fitted generates a lot
>
> of wind noise (I'm 6'3") but with earplugs it was fine. I might consider
>
> either a lower screen so the wind blast hits my chest or a
> laminar lip. Can
>
> you get screens with a NACA duct in them like a 907ie or the early Pan
>
> Europeans? That works well to reduce buffeting.
>
>
>
> Secondly are the instruments meant to be flexibly mounted? They
> wobble about
>
> a bit - I'll check the fixings to see if they're loose.
>
>
>
> I like the layout of the instruments but am slightly surprised at the lack
>
> of a temperature gauge. Do people commonly fit aftermarket ones? If so do
>
> you sacrifice the clock or is there another way that looks OK?
>
>
>
> I think I've got a bit of a bargain here! :-)
>
>
>
> IanE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> List guidelines: PLEASE NO grumpy replies, or replies which
> merely add agreement to a previous post. If a reply is only
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Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-23T12:02:54Z

Yep the relays are just behind the headlights and the containers point to heaven - mine were rusted solid. (what was left)

The layout of the pins are specific to the bike - as I realised when I tried to swap them out with car ones
Even precautionary sealing or flipping them over is a good idea. I have heard others on this forum grumble similarly.

I would have fitted rubber gaiters to the forks at the same time to protect the chrome and in turn the seals as it doesn't take long for them to chip and cut up the seals.

Hope you are ready for the spring....I am waiting for the last of the snow to disappear to have a nice long test run - having similarly dismantled the front end.

Dan

JackM-2 wrote:

The headlight relays fill with water? Seriously? LOL.... I believe you, and I will check it out.

It's just funny to me. In my provincial way of thinking, a bike designed, engineered and built in England..... well, you know..... moisture management is something I would not expect to be a problem.

Anyway, no doubt it will be something simple, as the bike was perfectly fine before I moved the wires around to unclamp and then re-clamp the fork tubes.

I will post the results for the future benefit of all you fine fellows. Thanks again.
Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, bodger barclay <barclay.dan@...> wrote:
>
>
> You want to also check out that your head light relays are not filling with
> water - they are "upside down" (at least on my 900) and prone to filling
> with water
>
>
>
> JackM-2 wrote:
> >
> > Hey Dudes,
> > Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.
> >
> > This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved
> > some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the
> > fork tubes.
> >
> > On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.
> >
> > Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a
> > voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running
> > (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it
> > began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice
> > to the ignition system.
> >
> > So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would
> > short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?
> >
> > Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a
> > separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?
> >
> > Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as
> > hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is
> > that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.
> >
> > Jack
> > Placerville, CA
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://old.nabble.com/Need-help%3A-Electrical-and-wiring-tp26879067p26895784.html
> Sent from the Triumph Trophy mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>

RE: Turn Signal Indicators - power/voltage/current/polarity

2009-12-23T11:18:22Z

OK, I make 2 ohms and 3 ohms in parallel = 1.2 ohms. (The power for 3 ohms would be 48W, 2 ohms 72W so 120W total which is what the twin headlights draw on main beam).

The LED is likely to be polarity conscious so ensure it is wired +to+ and -to- and it needs to be in parallel so both lamps are running on 12v (nominal)

The standard indicator (filament) bulbs are 21W front and 21W rear. The LED is most likely 5w (for a turn signal) so total power is 42w + 5W = 47W (normal current of 3.5A is increased up to 3.9A).

The only noticeable effect I expect is the indicators will flash slightly faster due to the thermal nature of the flasher unit.

Just had to put my 10 cents worth in!

Happy Holidays everyone, Tom

1200 2002 Blue

To: TriumphTrophy@...
From: jackon2wheelz@...
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 18:33:14 +0000
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Turn Signal Indicators

Ed, please let us know how that goes. I am curious if it works. I suspect it will not. Here's why.

If you put the LED's in series with the existing lights, then they will share the voltage between them, in proportion to their resistance values. So it is possible that neither the existing bulb nor the LED will illuminate fully. Again, that depends largely on the resistance of the LED.

If you put them in parallel, you may end up driving more current through the circuit than the fuse will allow. That's because total circuit resistance in parallel is just less than half of the lowest individual value.

Parallel circuit resistance is thus:
Total Resistance = R1 + R2/(R1 x R2)

So, just for example, if the LED is 3 Ohms and the bulb is 2 Ohms, total circuit resistance will be 5/6, or about 0.8 ohms.

Current is calculate by Voltage/Resistance

So in this example (and it is just an example) 12V/0.8Ohms = 15 Amps.
Where the bulb all by itself, current = 12V/2 Ohms = 6 Amps

All said, I DO NOT KNOW the actual values of the existing bulb or the LED array you are going to install. So, if it works correctly, please do tell us how you wired it and if you are happy with the results. I am interested in adding the LEDs myself.

Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., "Ed Johnson" <edljohnson2@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks Phillip;
> The LED's I'm considering are side lights for an automobile. 12V
> Chrome housing, self adhesive, $19.99 a pair, with 5 Yellow LED's per unit.
> Available at Advance Auto Parts for anyone looking for them.
> Ed J.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TriumphTrophy@... [mailto:TriumphTrophy@...]
> On Behalf Of philipwallington
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 6:02 PM
> To: TriumphTrophy@...
> Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Turn Signal Indicators
>
> Hi Ed
>
> This may seem obvious so forgive me for 'teaching Granny to suck eggs' - but
> - make sure the LEDs you buy are rated for 12 volt use. They come in lots of
> flavours (UK spelling!!) but the basic diode 'bit' normally operates at just
> 0.7 volts - the current has to be limited by a resistor in series. When you
> nuy a 12 volt LED, the resistor is buried inside so you don't even need to
> think about it. But get, say, 5 volt LEDs and run them at 12 volts - not a
> good plan. Bit like putting 6 volt bulbs in 12 volt sockets - life
> expectancy is short!!
>
> You're asolutely right about wiring them in parallel with the existing bulbs
> - the extra current would be difficult to measure.
>
> Happy holidays to all
>
> Philip
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> List guidelines: PLEASE NO grumpy replies, or replies which merely add
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Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-23T10:33:14Z

Ed, please let us know how that goes. I am curious if it works. I suspect it will not. Here's why.

If you put the LED's in series with the existing lights, then they will share the voltage between them, in proportion to their resistance values. So it is possible that neither the existing bulb nor the LED will illuminate fully. Again, that depends largely on the resistance of the LED.

If you put them in parallel, you may end up driving more current through the circuit than the fuse will allow. That's because total circuit resistance in parallel is just less than half of the lowest individual value.

Parallel circuit resistance is thus:
Total Resistance = R1 + R2/(R1 x R2)

So, just for example, if the LED is 3 Ohms and the bulb is 2 Ohms, total circuit resistance will be 5/6, or about 0.8 ohms.

Current is calculate by Voltage/Resistance

So in this example (and it is just an example) 12V/0.8Ohms = 15 Amps.
Where the bulb all by itself, current = 12V/2 Ohms = 6 Amps

All said, I DO NOT KNOW the actual values of the existing bulb or the LED array you are going to install. So, if it works correctly, please do tell us how you wired it and if you are happy with the results. I am interested in adding the LEDs myself.

Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., "Ed Johnson" <edljohnson2@...> wrote:

Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-23T10:16:37Z

The headlight relays fill with water? Seriously? LOL.... I believe you, and I will check it out.

It's just funny to me. In my provincial way of thinking, a bike designed, engineered and built in England..... well, you know..... moisture management is something I would not expect to be a problem.

Anyway, no doubt it will be something simple, as the bike was perfectly fine before I moved the wires around to unclamp and then re-clamp the fork tubes.

I will post the results for the future benefit of all you fine fellows. Thanks again.
Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., bodger barclay <barclay.dan@...> wrote:

>
>
> You want to also check out that your head light relays are not filling with
> water - they are "upside down" (at least on my 900) and prone to filling
> with water
>
>
>
> JackM-2 wrote:
> >
> > Hey Dudes,
> > Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.
> >
> > This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved
> > some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the
> > fork tubes.
> >
> > On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.
> >
> > Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a
> > voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running
> > (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it
> > began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice
> > to the ignition system.
> >
> > So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would
> > short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?
> >
> > Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a
> > separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?
> >
> > Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as
> > hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is
> > that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.
> >
> > Jack
> > Placerville, CA
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://old.nabble.com/Need-help%3A-Electrical-and-wiring-tp26879067p26895784.html
> Sent from the Triumph Trophy mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>

RE: Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-23T09:29:48Z

> Hi Ian,
> What you describe is how my '95 BBBB has always behaved. On cool
> mornings, I have to run the enricher for at least a mile or two. I
> think pretty much all of the Triumphs I've owned behaved. They are
> just cold blooded beasts. Happy Holidays Friend.

Oh, I know it's fine - just describing the "normal characteristics as a
contrast with the bike that doesn't like starting. Nearly took it into
Cheltenham today - glad I didn't as it was freezing fog and slush and ice
everywhere. :-(

IanE

Re: Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-23T09:07:58Z

beg to differ... silicon rectifier diode forward voltage is about 0.7 volts...

Red LED about 1.8 volts,
other colours go up to 2.0 volts per diode...

but either way. uesd on 12 volts would give very bright light for a very short time... LED's don't generally let the magic smoke out when they fail...

White LED's bon't work well behind coloured lenses...

Merry Christmas one and all....

John

--- On Tue, 22/12/09, philipwallington <philipwallington@...> wrote:

From: philipwallington <philipwallington@...>
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Turn Signal Indicators
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Date: Tuesday, 22 December, 2009, 23:02

Hi Ed

This may seem obvious so forgive me for 'teaching Granny to suck eggs' - but - make sure the LEDs you buy are rated for 12 volt use. They come in lots of flavours (UK spelling!!) but the basic diode 'bit' normally operates at just 0.7 volts - the current has to be limited by a resistor in series. When you nuy a 12 volt LED, the resistor is buried inside so you don't even need to think about it. But get, say, 5 volt LEDs and run them at 12 volts - not a good plan. Bit like putting 6 volt bulbs in 12 volt sockets - life expectancy is short!!

You're asolutely right about wiring them in parallel with the existing bulbs - the extra current would be difficult to measure.

Happy holidays to all

Philip

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-23T07:55:31Z

Hi Ian,
What you describe is how my '95 BBBB has always behaved. On cool
mornings, I have to run the enricher for at least a mile or two. I
think pretty much all of the Triumphs I've owned behaved. They are
just cold blooded beasts. Happy Holidays Friend.
Kindest regards,
Poppa Jack
On Dec 22, 2009, at 7:29 PM, Greg wrote:

> Hi, Ian, Yours is doing what it's supposed to do. Don't worry be
> happy.
> Greg Andrews
> 96 900 BRG
> 75,000 smiles
>
> "Ian Ellison" wrote:
> My 97 BBBB has been starting fine on full choke in the cold weather
> but does the Kwak thing (oops! I didn't say that!) and races away
> and needs bringing back to half choke for a short while before
> turning off completely. No idea how it's set, only had it a couple
> of weeks and it starts very well, esp. as it's been in storage
> since April at least.
> IanE
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

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Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-23T06:58:57Z

Hi Jack, Aren't there two big multi-pin connectors under the fairing close to the fuse box. At one time my connectors where inline with the rocket launcher holes. I also tied them up and out of the way so they wouldn't get blasted by rain. On yours, I wonder if one of them became loose, giving you the goofy acting electrics. The voltage regulator is under the alternator cap. Easy to get to, but of course pricey for such a small item.

On yours the Haynes manuel calls for an air gap of 133mm. For mine it required 17 ounces in each fork tube. I no longer buy an extra quart of expensive fork oil to put one more ounce into each fork tube. 16 ounces of 15 weight in each tube works just fine. Your battle tank feeling is it in the suspension or the steering? I raised the fork tubes in the clamps half an inch higher than the book calls for. Much better steering.

I've installed the aluminum petcock knobs on each of my Trophys. They look beautiful. Are you still selling them?
Greg Andrews
'95 900 Nightshade
'96 900 BRG

"JackM" wrote:
This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the fork tubes.
On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.
Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice to the ignition system.
So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?
Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?
Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.
Jack
Placerville, CA

(1) Shade of Blue, and (2) Turn Signal Indicators / LED's

2009-12-23T05:42:45Z

(1) Shade of Blue

IAN - That is Pacific Blue. My 98 1200 is just that. Well, except for
the road rash on the left fairing and bag....

(2) Turn Signal Indicators / LED's

ED - as someone else said, if the LED's you get are 12v rated - and the
AutoZone's should be - then yes, wire in parallel.

Fidelity & Fortitude,

Neil
---------------------
Houston (NE), Texas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-22T19:29:04Z

Hi, Ian, Yours is doing what it's supposed to do. Don't worry be happy.
Greg Andrews
96 900 BRG
75,000 smiles

"Ian Ellison" wrote:
My 97 BBBB has been starting fine on full choke in the cold weather but does the Kwak thing (oops! I didn't say that!) and races away and needs bringing back to half choke for a short while before turning off completely. No idea how it's set, only had it a couple of weeks and it starts very well, esp. as it's been in storage since April at least.
IanE

RE: Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-22T17:33:50Z

> However, my Trophy has NEVER liked full choke - it just wont
> start on ful choke.. Hot day not more than 1/4 choke. 0 to -5 deg
> and then only half choke.
>
> Carb float levels are spot on, carbs are balanced and idle screws
> out 2.5 turns.
>
> Is this just my bike or is there a different technique for each model.
>
> Mine is UK 95 BBBB. Very last of the Mk1. More like a MK2 (bars,
> foot peg positions) with Mk1 fairing.

My 97 BBBB has been starting fine on full choke in the cold weather but does
the Kwak thing (oops! I didn't say that!) and races away and needs bringing
back to half choke for a short while before turning off completely. No idea
how it's set, only had it a couple of weeks and it starts very well, esp. as
it's been in storage since April at least.

IanE

Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-22T16:03:05Z

Could be coils.

However, my Trophy has NEVER liked full choke - it just wont start on ful choke.. Hot day not more than 1/4 choke. 0 to -5 deg and then only half choke.

Carb float levels are spot on, carbs are balanced and idle screws out 2.5 turns.

Is this just my bike or is there a different technique for each model.

Mine is UK 95 BBBB. Very last of the Mk1. More like a MK2 (bars, foot peg positions) with Mk1 fairing.

Use right choke,don't touch the throttle an away she goes.

And yes, always set toprime if bike been stood more than about 5 days.

RE: Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T15:18:31Z

Thanks Phillip;
The LED's I'm considering are side lights for an automobile. 12V
Chrome housing, self adhesive, $19.99 a pair, with 5 Yellow LED's per unit.
Available at Advance Auto Parts for anyone looking for them.
Ed J.

-----Original Message-----
From: TriumphTrophy@... [mailto:TriumphTrophy@...]
On Behalf Of philipwallington
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 6:02 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Turn Signal Indicators

Hi Ed

This may seem obvious so forgive me for 'teaching Granny to suck eggs' - but
- make sure the LEDs you buy are rated for 12 volt use. They come in lots of
flavours (UK spelling!!) but the basic diode 'bit' normally operates at just
0.7 volts - the current has to be limited by a resistor in series. When you
nuy a 12 volt LED, the resistor is buried inside so you don't even need to
think about it. But get, say, 5 volt LEDs and run them at 12 volts - not a
good plan. Bit like putting 6 volt bulbs in 12 volt sockets - life
expectancy is short!!

You're asolutely right about wiring them in parallel with the existing bulbs
- the extra current would be difficult to measure.

Happy holidays to all

Philip

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Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-22T15:16:00Z

You want to also check out that your head light relays are not filling with water - they are "upside down" (at least on my 900) and prone to filling with water

JackM-2 wrote:

Hey Dudes,
Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.

This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the fork tubes.

On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.

Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice to the ignition system.

So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?

Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?

Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.

Jack
Placerville, CA

Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T15:02:22Z

Hi Ed

This may seem obvious so forgive me for 'teaching Granny to suck eggs' - but - make sure the LEDs you buy are rated for 12 volt use. They come in lots of flavours (UK spelling!!) but the basic diode 'bit' normally operates at just 0.7 volts - the current has to be limited by a resistor in series. When you nuy a 12 volt LED, the resistor is buried inside so you don't even need to think about it. But get, say, 5 volt LEDs and run them at 12 volts - not a good plan. Bit like putting 6 volt bulbs in 12 volt sockets - life expectancy is short!!

You're asolutely right about wiring them in parallel with the existing bulbs - the extra current would be difficult to measure.

Happy holidays to all

Philip

RE: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T13:18:12Z

Thanks Guys;
I forgot to mention that one of the side benefits of this setup is
that someone in a cage that's alongside of you can see them as well and know
your intentions. The side mirrors are at eye level to most cage drivers so
they don't even have to pay attention to notice them.
Ed J.

-----Original Message-----
From: TriumphTrophy@... [mailto:TriumphTrophy@...]
On Behalf Of Jack Byers
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 4:11 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Turn Signal Indicators

Hi Ed J.,
Yes you should be able to mount them in parallel with out any
problems. The LED(s) draw a very small amount of juice. you can
locate the ground wires anywhere it's convenient, and simply make a
pig-tail wire off of each side's blinker lite. BTW good idea!
Kindest regards,
Poppa Jack
On Dec 22, 2009, at 12:28 PM, Ed Johnson wrote:

> After checking out all of the options for us idiots who forget to
> turn off
> our turn signals, I have come to the conclusion that the best
> solution for
> me is Yellow LED indicators on the mirrors that flash in my eyes
> when I
> forget to shut the Momma's off. [Notice how I cleaned that up?] I
> found some
> at the Auto Parts Store that are the right size etc. My question
> is; Can I
> simply parallel them into the front side indicators on my Trophy?
> Worst that
> can happen is they will blow a fuse, right? The regular bulbs will
> cause the
> flasher to work as normal and the minor voltage drawn by the LED's
> should
> not cause a problem. Correct?
> I am not a electronic engineer nor do I play one on TV! (;-)
> Any help would be appreciated because for all I know, I could be
> converting
> electrical energy into hydrogen gas and plutonium compounds that could
> destroy the earth as we know it today. Save the world and rescue
> me! (;-)
> Happy Holidays
> Ed J.
>
>

Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T13:10:40Z

Hi Ed J.,
Yes you should be able to mount them in parallel with out any
problems. The LED(s) draw a very small amount of juice. you can
locate the ground wires anywhere it's convenient, and simply make a
pig-tail wire off of each side's blinker lite. BTW good idea!
Kindest regards,
Poppa Jack
On Dec 22, 2009, at 12:28 PM, Ed Johnson wrote:

Re: Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T12:42:42Z

I don't think it should cause any problem. Just make sure the polarity is correct. LED's are a semi-conductor not just a bulb.
---- Ed Johnson <edljohnson2@...> wrote:

> After checking out all of the options for us idiots who forget to turn off
> our turn signals, I have come to the conclusion that the best solution for
> me is Yellow LED indicators on the mirrors that flash in my eyes when I
> forget to shut the Momma's off. [Notice how I cleaned that up?] I found some
> at the Auto Parts Store that are the right size etc. My question is; Can I
> simply parallel them into the front side indicators on my Trophy? Worst that
> can happen is they will blow a fuse, right? The regular bulbs will cause the
> flasher to work as normal and the minor voltage drawn by the LED's should
> not cause a problem. Correct?
>

Turn Signal Indicators

2009-12-22T12:28:10Z

After checking out all of the options for us idiots who forget to turn off
our turn signals, I have come to the conclusion that the best solution for
me is Yellow LED indicators on the mirrors that flash in my eyes when I
forget to shut the Momma's off. [Notice how I cleaned that up?] I found some
at the Auto Parts Store that are the right size etc. My question is; Can I
simply parallel them into the front side indicators on my Trophy? Worst that
can happen is they will blow a fuse, right? The regular bulbs will cause the
flasher to work as normal and the minor voltage drawn by the LED's should
not cause a problem. Correct?
I am not a electronic engineer nor do I play one on TV! (;-)
Any help would be appreciated because for all I know, I could be converting
electrical energy into hydrogen gas and plutonium compounds that could
destroy the earth as we know it today. Save the world and rescue me! (;-)
Happy Holidays
Ed J.

Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-22T10:47:31Z

Thank you Jim and Martin for your replies...

I will start in on the bike tonight. Jim, your methodical approach to investigating your own electrical gremlins is appreciated. Just wish I had an electrical diagram. Oh well. Former farm boys can usually trace/find anything. We'll see. And yes, we need to get together for coffee or lunch or take our spouses for an afternoon ride down the delta or perhaps Ice House Road, come springtime. Donna noticed your Trophy parked there at work one day and recognized it as such immediately because of mine. But yours has the extra, unnecessary cylinder, yes? :)

Martin, I will give it a couple hundred miles, as you suggest. The forks were indeed very soft before. Soft to the point of being a nuisance, obviously because one side was leaking and had been leaking for a year or more. I finally just got around to doing the job. So not only is it holding its air, but I also went to 15W oil. Time will tell if that is too heavy. But I was just annoyed with it bottoming out anytime I was on the brakes and then also hit a bump.

Thanks again, and anyone else please do respond if anything comes to mind regarding the lectrical stuff I asked about.
Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., "Jacques, Martin, VF-Group" <martin.jacques@...> wrote:

>
> Jack,
>
> I too recently did the fork seals on my '03, and echo your sentiments
> that the forks are now very hard riding. I set them per Haynes
> specification, so air gap of 133mm.
>
> Initially, I was convinced that I had done something wrong as the forks
> kicked up off even the smallest bumps at slow speed. Now I have done
> 3,000 miles or so on them, they seem to have bedded in nicely. Still a
> significantly firmer ride than before, but I put that down to my forks
> having 37k miles on them before I serviced them.
>
> I'd say give them a few hundred miles before deciding to change anything
> - it may just be that the forks were very soft pre service and that is
> what you were used to. After that, you could always take a syringe and
> drain a little oil 10-20ml maybe from each fork leg without removing
> them from the yokes.
>
>
> Martin
>
> 03 1200, 41k miles
>
> Bath, England
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: Black soot on carburator

2009-12-22T09:05:05Z

Thanks for that suggestion. I am away from the bike right now, but when I get back I will check that out. Oddly enough, I also have a Thunderbird and I noticed the same thing on one of its carburetors. not as much though. It could be a common problem.
They both run great though!
Dave

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., "Chris" <chris@...> wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@..., "daverider06" <davenport-d@> wrote:
> >
> > My 96 1200 has black soot on the bottom of the left carburator. The others are clean and bike runs fine. Any idea where it might be coming from? Is it possible for exhaust to be coming out through the intake?
> > Dave
> >
>
> Dave
>
> Has your drain pipe become disconnected from the air box? If I remember correctly the airbox connector is forward facing on the left hand side at the bottom of the airbox i.e pointing towards the bottom of your left hand carb.
>
> Chris
>

Thank You for Advice on Body Work and Sequencing Maintenance

2009-12-22T07:15:46Z

Hi Everybody,
Thanks to all for the posts and emails. I'm going to replace the damaged fairing (thanks to a forum member with extra 96 BRG Trophy 1200 body parts). Also, I have a good handle on how to sequence the maintenance. I'm thankful to be a part of this group. Y'all rock!

John F
Minneapolis
96 Trophy 1200 BRG

RE: Which shade of blue is this?

2009-12-22T06:13:17Z

Hi Ian,

I think that colour is Pacific Blue - I have the same on my 900.

Phil

Phil Perks

Managing Director
Pro-Street Cycles Ltd
<http://www.pro-streetcycles.com/> http://www.pro-streetcycles.com

<http://www.prostreetblog.com/> http://www.prostreetblog.com

<http://www.time4bikes.com/> http://www.time4bikes.com

"Attitude is Everything...."

The sender cannot accept any liability for any loss and or damage sustained
as a result of software viruses. It is your responsibility to carry out
such virus checking as is necessary before opening any attachment.

From: TriumphTrophy@... [mailto:TriumphTrophy@...]
On Behalf Of Ian Ellison
Sent: 22 December 2009 14:02
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Which shade of blue is this?

Can anyone confirm for me which shade of blue this is, and can anyone in the
UK recommend a good source for touch up paint? The top box on my bike needs
a little cosmetic attention. I've seen the paint codes in the FAQ but I
don't know what the colour is called! It's a 1997 bike.

http://www.ianellison.org.uk/trophy1200.jpg

TIA

IanE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Which shade of blue is this?

2009-12-22T06:01:31Z

Can anyone confirm for me which shade of blue this is, and can anyone in the
UK recommend a good source for touch up paint? The top box on my bike needs
a little cosmetic attention. I've seen the paint codes in the FAQ but I
don't know what the colour is called! It's a 1997 bike.

http://www.ianellison.org.uk/trophy1200.jpg

TIA

IanE

Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-22T02:28:20Z

Jack,

I too recently did the fork seals on my '03, and echo your sentiments
that the forks are now very hard riding. I set them per Haynes
specification, so air gap of 133mm.

Initially, I was convinced that I had done something wrong as the forks
kicked up off even the smallest bumps at slow speed. Now I have done
3,000 miles or so on them, they seem to have bedded in nicely. Still a
significantly firmer ride than before, but I put that down to my forks
having 37k miles on them before I serviced them.

I'd say give them a few hundred miles before deciding to change anything
- it may just be that the forks were very soft pre service and that is
what you were used to. After that, you could always take a syringe and
drain a little oil 10-20ml maybe from each fork leg without removing
them from the yokes.

Martin

03 1200, 41k miles

Bath, England

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-21T21:11:19Z

Jack,

Season's greetings to you and the entire group.

Recently, about six weeks ago, I developed an intermittent headlight issue along with a deadening battery. Well.... after hearing all the group chat regarding electrical nightmares I began to think I was next in line.

So I bought a new battery for starters, took it home and charged it as directed. Took 'er for a nice spin about 70 miles with a few stops and noticed at my last stop the bike fired over rather tired sounding. Got home and put a volt meter on the tabs and she was down to 11.8V. Now being really concerned that I was no longer next, but rather I was it TAG!
Next step, while the battery is recharging, I pull off the nose and start the wire tracing game. I detach two main (large) connectors on the right side and find that one seems a little loose fitting. So I decide that a couple zip ties are in order. I even elect to zip tie the wire housing to the nose sub frame. Now I am for sure that my problem is fixed. So I turn on the key and instant light appears from the twin beams, I just know that I have solved yet another mystery and saved a bundle.

A couple days later I take the bike to work, all seems to be fine. I exit my three story work building and skip happily to my "fixed" bike. She greets me with the usual BRG grin and I begin unlocking my luggage to gear up while I warm her up. No sooner than the key turn on I realize the headlight is not on. Suddenly I resort to my previous fool proof method of banging the right side of the faring and after a few strikes I see the light. Happy...... sort of...... Sad..... for sure. My ego resorts to victim mode again. I sadly scoot home with the reality of more mysterious work to come.

Well.... Here comes the beauty of it all. Tonight I decide it's time to get real friendly with the fuse box. So I carefully test each fuse leg with my volt meter. When I get to the last one (Headlights) I notice some fluctuation in my readings on either side of the fuse. Stirring my curiosity, I shine my flashlight into the storage compartment. What did I see?? I saw my 30 amp fuse just gently resting on the contacts, but not inserted as it should be. My mind races to the thought of banging on the fairing, intermittent lights, battery not charging? What..... battery not charging.... could it be related? Ohhh now the curiosity is on!!! So I grab my volt meter and quickly hook it up to the battery. No load, engine off I get a respectable 12.4V. I turn the key, lights come on (brightly now) and the voltage drops to 11.9. I start the engine and zoom zoom the throttle a little and the meter tells me I've got a juicy 13.4V pumping right into that poor
neglected battery. Right at that moment I experience one of those internal grins. You know, the kind only you are aware of as there is no exterior hint of the satisfaction that you feel deep in your soul.

So now, I wait....... the true test will tell in time. Tomorrow I ride again, this time I don't expect to see my battery charger come on when I get home and connect it.

And so I learn....... A fuse in the slot, is better than a fuse in the box.

As for your troubles Jack, I'm thinking after the short is solved so will be the charging issue. I digress.... back to the wire chasing game, good luck Jack! Let me know if you want a second set of eyes, I'd be glad to come over and meet ya and share in your troubles (that is bike troubles of course).

Merry Christmas Lads and Gents.

Jim
2000 BBBB BRG
Citrus Heights, CA

--- On Mon, 12/21/09, JackM <jackon2wheelz@...> wrote

Hey Dudes,
Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.

This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the fork tubes.

On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.

Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice to the ignition system.

So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Re: Cold weather starting difficulty

2009-12-21T14:04:00Z

Psst! has anybody said Coils yet?

John

--- On Mon, 21/12/09, Greg <gandrews@...> wrote:

From: Greg <gandrews@...>
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Cold weather starting difficulty
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Date: Monday, 21 December, 2009, 16:12

Hi Saintaug1, Move the choke lever to full choke. Then reach down and try to move the choke some more. If you can pull it out some more the cable needs to be adjusted. The adjustment is mid cable under the fuel tank on my '95 900.
Greg Andrews

"saintaug1" wrote:
Have a 2001 1200 Trophy and it's always been a bit tempermental in starting even on hot days. Go through the "ritual" and seems to start fine. Now that temps have dropped in the 40's and 50's (hey it's Florida), it just doesn't want to start as well. Runs great once started and warmed up.
Any suggestions?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Accesory socket. (PIAA lights on fender answer)

2009-12-21T12:01:32Z

I did indeed mount the PIAA lights in place of the reflectors on the lower front fender.

Teflon washers were used to spread the mounting load, as the Trophy's bodywork does not seem to be particularly robust.

Also used rubber coated wiring clamps with the screws that hold the rear portion of the fender to the fork tubes, and routed the wires through them.

As it happens, I took pics of my ill-fated and previously-mentioned fork seal change this weekend and I would imagine there is enough detail in those pics to see the PIAA fender mounts. Will post them in a day or so.

Jack
Placerville, CA

--- In TriumphTrophy@..., Jack Byers <jackbyers@...> wrote:

>
> OK, Jack M.,
> I am curious to know just how you mounted your PIAA lamps to your
> front fender. Are they actually affixed to the fender, or are you
> utilizing the reflector brackets to hold them? On my '95 if I put
> them on top of the fender, I think that they would bump into the
> fairing.
> Kindest regards,
> Poppa Jack
> On Dec 20, 2009, at 10:59 AM, Ian Ellison wrote:
>
> > > Happy Holidays Ian,
> > > I'm curious about how you mounted those PIAA lamps on the front
> > > fender. Are they on the reflector brackets,or ?
> > > Kindest regards,
> > > Poppa Jack
> >
> > Got your attributions confused there Jack - it's JackM who has the
> > PIAAs.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Ian
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-21T11:49:51Z

--- On Mon, 21/12/09, JackM <jackon2wheelz@...> wrote:

From: JackM <jackon2wheelz@...>
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Need help: Electrical and wiring
To: TriumphTrophy@...
Date: Monday, 21 December, 2009, 19:46

Hey Dudes,
Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.

This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the fork tubes.

On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.

Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice to the ignition system.

So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?

Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?

Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.

Jack
Placerville, CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Need help: Electrical and wiring

2009-12-21T11:46:22Z

Hey Dudes,
Hoping to get some feedback if you have the time.

This weekend I changed fork seals in my '01 BBBS. In the process, I moved some wires around under the fairing, mostly to unclamp and re-clamp the fork tubes.

On the test ride after, the main 30A fuse for the headlight blew.

Also, the alternator is no longer putting juice to the battery. I placed a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the engine was running (varying rpm's) and watched it drop down from 12.6 to 10.1, and then it began to run bad. Presumably because it was no longer giving enough juice to the ignition system.

So..... is there a connector under the fairing you can think of that would short, and would impact both the headlight and the charging system?

Also... is the alternator internally regulated like a car or is there a separate regulator/recitifer unit somewhere on the bike?

Oh..... and the front end now rides like a friggin battle tank. Stiff as hell. I set the air gap at 130mm, forks compressed and springs removed. Is that not enough air gap? Thank you, sincerely.

Jack
Placerville, CA