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	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:forum-13916</id>
	<title>Nabble - Yamaha Virago</title>
	<updated>2009-11-23T07:17:04Z</updated>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://old.nabble.com/Yamaha-Virago-f13916.xml" />
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	<subtitle type="html">This forum used to an archive for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mail.itg.uiuc.edu/mailman/listinfo/virago&quot; target=&quot;_top&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;virago@mail.itg.uiuc.edu &lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;mailing list. You can discuss any issues related to the Yamaha Virago Motorcycle such as buying, selling, maintenance, riding, and accessories.</subtitle>
	
<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26479875</id>
	<title>Re: virago only fires on one cylinder</title>
	<published>2009-11-23T07:17:04Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-23T07:17:04Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Once you get it home, try putting 1/2 can of Seafoam in the gas tank, then fill it with gas. Try to start it and get it running until it has enough time to get the stuff into the carbs, then let it set overnight. The next day, start it and go for a ride if you can. If its the carbs, the Seafoam will help to clean them up. Good idea to check the float level before you do this to make sure they are correct or close. If it turns out to be the TCI, (Transistor Controlled Ignition) there is a guy in San Mateo, CA who rebuilds them. Just so you are aware, the TCI unit controls the timing, spark advance and the ignition. So there isn't any timing adjustment on these bikes.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Bill</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/virago-only-fires-on-one-cylinder-tp9405384p26479875.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26472737</id>
	<title>Re: virago only fires on one cylinder</title>
	<published>2009-11-22T20:38:31Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-23T08:37:10Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>texdeb</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Going to look at this bike in the am. &amp;nbsp;I'm pretty sure I will get it no matter what the problem is. &amp;nbsp;Looks like I have plenty of help in here and my shade treee mechanic bosses. &amp;nbsp;Here is what the man sent me. &amp;nbsp;He has already done a lot of work to it but now has ran in to this problem. &amp;nbsp;After reading your post I tend to think it is the carbs. &amp;nbsp;No smoke, just problems starting up not that it is cold. &amp;nbsp;
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;1982 Virago, 750
&lt;br&gt;I have ridden the bike all summer and it ran great, now that its gotten cold I've been having trouble starting it. I haven't taken it to the shop but there are 2 possibilities, the carbs need rebuilding( they have never been rebuilt) or the CDI is going bad(something virago's are know for).
&lt;br&gt;I think its the CDI judging from the symptoms.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/virago-only-fires-on-one-cylinder-tp9405384p26472737.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26280695</id>
	<title>Re: Starting Issues 1981 virago 750</title>
	<published>2009-11-10T01:42:06Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-10T01:42:06Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Unless the engine has been apart, the timing is probably OK, but you can check it using the Clymers manual by lining up and appropriate timing marks on the crank shaft and the cam shaft. There isn't a timing adjustment on the Virago's. The timing is controlled by the TCI unit. If you have fire at the plugs, I would suggest starting with the carbs. The Hitachi's like to be squeeky clean and if the bike has set with fuel in it for any length of time, they will be plugged up and need a thourough cleaning. While apart, I would put new K&amp;L kits in them and make sure the floats are good and the level is set properly. With a new battery, so good fuel it should start. If you are talking about the side cover gaskets, they are available. I have a set I bought off Ebay for my 920 that I keep in case I need to take off one of the side covers. Keep us posted with your progress.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Starting-Issues-1981-virago-750-tp26280350p26280695.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26280350</id>
	<title>Starting Issues 1981 virago 750</title>
	<published>2009-11-10T01:13:27Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-10T01:13:27Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>lareazare</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Ok, I am a complete newbie when it comes to motorcycles. I bought myself a cheap bike so that i could fix it up. it's far more complicated then I thought. I have myself a Clymer manual and it is fairly useful. The bike will turn over, it gets good spark, and when the solenoid was in place it would act like it is getting ready to fire. the most i've ever gotten out of it is it backfiring, it did turn on once for a brief second or two. the solenoid later burned out, as well as the battery. i gave up on it due to lack of time. now i have this bike for a winter project and i want it to atleast start for me by spring. I have been reading how this bike can have timming issues. I was wondering if this might be the cause? now i've read on how to adjust the timing but it isn't an easy task, especially for a newbie. I think i can do it, the only problem is that this bike has some kind of sealant placed on the side of the case where the timing mechanisim is. the bike always had an oil leak, so i figured it might not be sealed properly? perhaps the gaskets weren't installed properly or their defective? anyway I want to try and attempt this but i want to make sure this is what i should be trying. not to mention once i do it this seal will be gone and i'm not sure if it will be sealed when reassembled. perhaps i could seal it afterwards, but i was wondering if this is what i should be attempting? or should i scrap &amp;nbsp;the idea of fixing it and sell it for parts. its a beautiful bike and the person i bought it from was driving it as i saw them on it many times so it did run at one time. any thought would be helpful and any estimates on what something might cost to fix would be nice as well. I know a guy who will look at it for me but i dont want to pay for what i can learn to do on my own. thanks in advance for any advice. </content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Starting-Issues-1981-virago-750-tp26280350p26280350.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26280158</id>
	<title>Re: Problems with Yamaha Virago 920</title>
	<published>2009-11-10T00:56:58Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-10T00:56:58Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>lareazare</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">hello, I was wondering if you had ever solved your problem? I believe my 81' virago has the same issue. mine tries to fire and will backfire but it just won't start. i have a manual and it looks like you do have to take the engine off the frame to get to the timing. I don't really know much about bikes but this one is doing me no good broken, so im getting some help with my dad. now we're willing to try the procedure that they list in clymers book but i want to know if im wasting my time with it or not. if you had any sucess or tips on this please let me know. it appears that this might be a common issue with viragos, but my bike also has a sealant on the case, so i dont want to break it if it didnt work for anyone else. thanks in advance for any replys. </content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Problems-with-Yamaha-Virago-920-tp22519748p26280158.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26269172</id>
	<title>VIRAGO 750 BREAKING FOR PARTS</title>
	<published>2009-11-09T08:21:29Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-09T08:21:29Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>talk_wrench</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Hello there, I know I am new to this forum, but I'v joined to advertise an american issue Virago 750 I have recently pulled apart.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;THIS IS AN AMERICAN ISSUE VIRAGO, WITH THE MONOSHOCK ON THE BACK.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For sale:
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Fuel tank, chassis, drive shaft and rear swingarm (attached), front forks, engine covers, stator and rotor of the alternator, full wiring loom, set of clocks, many panels and pieces, rear sub frame and chrome mudguard.... The list goes on and on.....
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have many other parts available, please ring for anything you may want.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;07974750770
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Please email on gwilymh@hotmail.com
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You can add me on facebook if you like, to prove who I am. You are more than welcome to view the parts before buying of course.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Many thanks.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/VIRAGO-750-BREAKING-FOR-PARTS-tp26269172p26269172.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26241137</id>
	<title>Re: 1987 VIRAGO700 no fire to front cyl.</title>
	<published>2009-11-07T07:19:18Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-07T07:19:18Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Great, glad to hear you got it fixed. Probably corroded in the wire tip where the resistor connects.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1987-VIRAGO700-no-fire-to-front-cyl.-tp26084240p26241137.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26240928</id>
	<title>Re: 1987 VIRAGO700 no fire to front cyl.</title>
	<published>2009-11-07T05:17:46Z</published>
	<updated>2009-11-07T05:17:46Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>nohairrider</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">thanks, ohm meter gave mixed results so I snipped 1/4 inch of rubber off of the wire,changed the plug and that seemed to correct it.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1987-VIRAGO700-no-fire-to-front-cyl.-tp26084240p26240928.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26092900</id>
	<title>Re: automatic clutch and &quot;grinding the ribs&quot;</title>
	<published>2009-10-28T04:17:31Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-28T04:17:31Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I think they are talking about the ribs on the clutch cage. If so, it's a milling job and will require removing it from the bike and milling it to the specs required by the manufacturer of the clutch kit. Automatic Clutch for a Virago? Who's the manufacturer? You would need to follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/automatic-clutch-and-%22grinding-the-ribs%22-tp25873137p26092900.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26092857</id>
	<title>Re: winterizing</title>
	<published>2009-10-28T04:13:59Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-28T04:13:59Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I would suggest using a fuel stabilizer like Stabil in the fuel tank. Also a good idea to add some SeaFoam to the fuel to keep the corrosion down in the tank and keep the carbs clean. I use a 1/2 can in a full tank. Then keep your tank full to prevent moisture collecting. I always start and run my bikes enough to warm them up at least once per month. More often if possible. This keeps condensation from happening in the crankcase.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/winterizing-tp25951704p26092857.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26092815</id>
	<title>Re: 1987 VIRAGO700 no fire to front cyl.</title>
	<published>2009-10-28T04:09:12Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-28T04:09:12Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">It could be the wire......or the resistor in the wire end..... Try checking it with an ohm meter. There are specs in &amp;nbsp;your Service Manual for the values you should read. If you are using NGK plugs, try changing to Autolite AP63 Platinum plugs set at .028 thousands.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1987-VIRAGO700-no-fire-to-front-cyl.-tp26084240p26092815.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26084240</id>
	<title>1987 VIRAGO700 no fire to front cyl.</title>
	<published>2009-10-27T13:25:31Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-27T13:25:31Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>nohairrider</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I have read some of the other similar probs. and ans.If I pull the front wire about an inch off of the plug it will fire. Anybody got any ideas before I start to dismantle?could it be the wire?</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1987-VIRAGO700-no-fire-to-front-cyl.-tp26084240p26084240.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-26044612</id>
	<title>1982 Virago Parts for sale 2 complete bikes cheap!!!!!!</title>
	<published>2009-10-24T18:38:49Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-24T18:38:49Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>viragonaples</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">i have 2 1982 viragos for sale as parts. they were taken in trade. they are the 500 models. one has a tank, the other not. a few new spares in a box. one motor has great compression with 34k miles on it. have chrome front fender on one, great electronics. a perfect condition seat, complete key set with origional yamaha key. anything you can think of i have. email me what you need.
&lt;br&gt;located in naples,fl. both bikes can be purchased for $600.00
&lt;br&gt;chipmassa@hotmail.com</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1982-Virago-Parts-for-sale-2-complete-bikes-cheap%21%21%21%21%21%21-tp26044612p26044612.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25951704</id>
	<title>winterizing</title>
	<published>2009-10-18T17:05:53Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-18T17:05:53Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>93virago</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">1993 virago 750, running fine with yamaha ring clean in the gas. &amp;nbsp;Do I need to do anything else to winterize my bike other than starting it from time to time and letting it run? &amp;nbsp;Any suggestions would be appreciated. &amp;nbsp;</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/winterizing-tp25951704p25951704.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25900842</id>
	<title>82 XV920 for sale</title>
	<published>2009-10-14T17:18:41Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-14T17:18:41Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>Pop of 6</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">&amp;nbsp; I lost my winter storage area when the guy who renting me space sold the property so one of my bikes has to go. To anyone in Southeastern Pa. I am selling my 82 XV920. &amp;nbsp;Everything works on the bike, has
&lt;br&gt;good tires and a good battery and runs very strong. &amp;nbsp;It had 17,500 miles. &amp;nbsp;It's a good looking bike just needs a new seat, ripped, a new RH mirror, snaped off today when I tried to loosen it, and a little cosmetic
&lt;br&gt;work. &amp;nbsp;Great bike for anyone looking for a good dependable ride. &amp;nbsp;Looking for $1100.00 but will consider any offer. &amp;nbsp;Anyone interested I contact me at Dirt46@AOL.Com and I will E Mail you pictures </content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/82-XV920-for-sale-tp25900842p25900842.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25873137</id>
	<title>automatic clutch and &quot;grinding the ribs&quot;</title>
	<published>2009-10-13T06:42:35Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-13T06:42:35Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>motley2000</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Can anyone tell me what &amp;quot;grinding the ribs&amp;quot; is and about it would cost? I want to order an auto clutch for my virago 920cc, but was told I may have to grind the rib.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/automatic-clutch-and-%22grinding-the-ribs%22-tp25873137p25873137.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25865539</id>
	<title>BEWARE OLD BIKE BARN</title>
	<published>2009-10-12T17:47:28Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-12T17:47:28Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>hwyman</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">To all who read this forum. The OLD BIKE BARN are theives. They will take your money and not send you the merchandise that you order. Check their rating on the BBB website. I have been taken for $176. They will string you along until you finally confront them and then refuse to give your money back, or tell you that the check is in the mail. BEWARE OF THIS COMPANY!!!!</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/BEWARE-OLD-BIKE-BARN-tp25865539p25865539.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25861229</id>
	<title>virago1100 air induction system!</title>
	<published>2009-10-12T12:04:33Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-12T12:04:33Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>dottywillow</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">hi, i have a virago 1100 import and it has a air induction system on it, which i wont to remove if possible, it is not connected to the exhaust.
&lt;br&gt;the reason why is that i wish to personalize it.
&lt;br&gt;I wish to know if i can take the air induction system off or will it bugger up the running of the engine.
&lt;br&gt;Sorry if i sound stupid but have never done something like this before so needed all the help i can get!
&lt;br&gt;I would like to change the clocks on it too but unsure what to have. Just want to reduce what is on the bike.
&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/virago1100-air-induction-system%21-tp25861229p25861229.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25854605</id>
	<title>Re: Carb removal on '85 Virago 700cc</title>
	<published>2009-10-12T05:07:00Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-12T05:07:00Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Randy,
&lt;br&gt;If you haven't already done so, you will need to remove the carb holders to get the carbs out. There are two bolts on each head that attach the carb holders to the head and then clamps that hold the carbs to the holders. Remove the bolts and the carb holders and with a slight twisting motion, you should be able to remove the carbs. </content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Carb-removal-on-%2785-Virago-700cc-tp25845768p25854605.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25845768</id>
	<title>Carb removal on '85 Virago 700cc</title>
	<published>2009-10-11T10:43:37Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-11T10:43:37Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>flatdog</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Kindly, can anyone tell me how to remove the carbs on this model?? can't seem to get them off..Many Thanks, Randy</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Carb-removal-on-%2785-Virago-700cc-tp25845768p25845768.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25845744</id>
	<title>Re: Probable Solution to the &quot;Firing on One Cylinder&quot; Issue...50MPH at WOT No More!</title>
	<published>2009-10-11T10:41:37Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-11T10:41:37Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>flatdog</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Hi Guys,
&lt;br&gt;I just inherited an '85 Virago ( virago n. , pl. , -goes , or -gos . A woman regarded as noisy, scolding, or domineering. A large, strong, courageous woman.) that has the misfire on the front cylinder and am going to clean and rebuild carbs and look for the wiring problem solved here. I come from an Experimental Aircraft background and would like to share a fix for fuel tank interior rusting and debris problems common on older metal tanks. I live in Florida, the humidity capital of the world, and the water and crap in the fuel in everything here causes problems. In metal tanks (works in plastic, fiberglass, too), &amp;nbsp;I clean, derust by adding small gravel and water to dislodge the rust particles, remove the gravel, dry by using compressed air, and rinse with acetone, then use &amp;quot;&lt;b&gt;Randolph Alcohol Resistant Sloshing Sealer&lt;/b&gt;&amp;quot; in the tank, allow to harden for several days. Then your tank will be squeaky clean inside with a protective coating that will prevent rust and corrosion. Be SURE to use an inline fuel filter, as you know, all fuel is contaminated with all kinds of crap that will clog fuel lines and carbs. This sloshing sealer is available from Wicks Aircraft Supply and Aircraft Spruce Supply. Hope this helps..And thanks for all posts that help newbies like me to diagnose and fix problems we all experience.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Probable-Solution-to-the-%22Firing-on-One-Cylinder%22-Issue...50MPH-at-WOT-No-More%21-tp24692447p25845744.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25841063</id>
	<title>Re: '82 Virago 750 battery keeps going dead</title>
	<published>2009-10-10T23:42:48Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-10T23:42:48Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>pofarm</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Check out this thread. The guy had an eerily similar problem to yours.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://viragotechforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=19313&amp;highlight=neutral+light&quot; target=&quot;_top&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://viragotechforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=19313&amp;highlight=neutral+light&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/%2782-Virago-750-battery-keeps-going-dead-tp25824110p25841063.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25830919</id>
	<title>Re: '82 Virago 750 battery keeps going dead</title>
	<published>2009-10-09T21:17:57Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-09T21:17:57Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I agree.... Probably a bad ignition switch or a shorted wire somewhere causing the ignition or a portion of the circuit to stay &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; with the switch &amp;quot;off&amp;quot;. Unplug the switch and then get out your wiring diagram and a good Voltmeter and check the wires for a short. Do the same with the switch terminals with the switch both in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position and with it &amp;quot;off&amp;quot;. This should tell you which direction to look for the problem.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/%2782-Virago-750-battery-keeps-going-dead-tp25824110p25830919.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25825143</id>
	<title>Re: '82 Virago 750 battery keeps going dead</title>
	<published>2009-10-09T10:39:07Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-09T10:39:07Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>Pop of 6</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">&lt;br&gt;I had an old Honda do something of the same thing and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. &amp;nbsp;Try disconnecting the switch. This Honda you couldn't take the switch apart but a different switch fixed the problem.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/%2782-Virago-750-battery-keeps-going-dead-tp25824110p25825143.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25824435</id>
	<title>Re: Stator</title>
	<published>2009-10-09T09:49:37Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-09T09:49:37Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>Pop of 6</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">&lt;br&gt;Thank You for the information on the battery. &amp;nbsp;With the light on I assumed (just an ass out of me) that it wasn't charging. &amp;nbsp;I did do the stater ohm check with a good electricians ohm meter and had 0 ohms and no ohms to ground. &amp;nbsp;The battery could be going dead because of the number of times I have been starting the bike. &amp;nbsp;I'm going to check it the was I check my Hondas by using an amp meter across the main fuse. &amp;nbsp;
&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp; I already put a different stator in.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Stator-tp25796787p25824435.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25824110</id>
	<title>'82 Virago 750 battery keeps going dead</title>
	<published>2009-10-09T09:26:28Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-09T10:38:27Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>gary riggle</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">My '82 Virago 750 has an electrical problem. &amp;nbsp;2nd brand new battery will not hold a charge. If I turn the key to 'on' position, then turn to off the nuetral light will stay on. If I try and start it and turn key to 'off' position the nuetral light and oil level light will stay on. If I turn the kill switch to run with key 'off' the nuetral light will come on. With key off I can turn kill switch to run and be able to crank bike. Anyone with similar problem? Is there a short in the kill switch? Starter button?</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/%2782-Virago-750-battery-keeps-going-dead-tp25824110p25824110.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25823908</id>
	<title>Re: Electrical Problems</title>
	<published>2009-10-09T09:16:06Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-09T09:16:06Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>gary riggle</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Did you ever find a solution to the problem about the oil level light and nuetral light staying on. My '82 Virago 750 does the same thing. I can turn key on and turn it off and the nuetral light will stay on after key is off. My new battery keeps going dead and will not hold &amp;nbsp;a charge.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Electrical-Problems-tp25530524p25823908.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25804664</id>
	<title>Re: virago only fires on one cylinder</title>
	<published>2009-10-08T11:50:36Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-08T11:50:36Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>skeezix</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I also left this post just now which could be a possible problem as well with the air mixture control valve
&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nabble.com/virago-running-on-one-cylinder-td20666994.html&quot; target=&quot;_top&quot;&gt;http://www.nabble.com/virago-running-on-one-cylinder-td20666994.html&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/virago-only-fires-on-one-cylinder-tp9405384p25804664.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25804663</id>
	<title>Re: Slipping clutch</title>
	<published>2009-10-08T11:47:41Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-08T11:47:41Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>skeezix</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Ditto on the oil. &amp;nbsp;My XV750 was slipping when I would push the throttle and once it started to respond the clutch would slip during acceleration.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I dumped the oil, and put in some specifically for motorcycle/wet clutch, and the problem disappeared immediately.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Slipping-clutch-tp24158822p25804663.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25804393</id>
	<title>Re: virago running on one cylinder</title>
	<published>2009-10-08T11:35:57Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-08T11:35:57Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>skeezix</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">There is another issue that happened to me today. &amp;nbsp;I have a 1981 XV750 and it was running on the rear cylinder only. &amp;nbsp;The front cylinder has 2 vacuum lines coming from the carb/manifold joint. &amp;nbsp;Make sure this joint isn't cracked also (spray some brake cleaner around it will running, see if it starts firing or idle jumps). &amp;nbsp;The vacuum lines from this joint run to both the right-side fuel cock as well as the air mixture control valve, which is located behind the front-left frame. &amp;nbsp;This valve can cause a lot of problems, and if the vacuum isn't present in this line then you won't get fuel to the front cylinder if the petcock is on the 'on' or 'reserve' position.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Get the bike started and running (if possible!) and change the right fuel cock to 'prime' - this will let fuel flow regardless of vacuum, and if it starts firing then either you have an issue with the fuel cock, or a vacuum (or air mixture valve) problem.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;My problem today was that the carb was delivering fuel but wasn't getting anything from the petcock so it ran out for the front cylinder and I was running only on the rear. I checked this by taking a feel at the pipes and the exhaust from the front was cooling down, the other was hot hot hot. &amp;nbsp;I couldn't get the bike to stay running or start back up, so I changed the right-side petcock to prime and left it there, and after about 20 seconds I tried starting again. &amp;nbsp;A few tries later it started and both cylinders were firing. &amp;nbsp;I got back on the road, moved the right petcock to 'on' and after about 1/4 to 1/2 mile it started missing again on the front cylinder, and soon as I moved it to prime (while moving) it started firing fine again. &amp;nbsp;That tells me I have either vacuum leak, petcock issue, or air mixture valve which would also cause vacuum issues.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For vacuum lines (from memory) - the big nipple on the front manifold/carb joint goes to the air mixture valve. &amp;nbsp;The small one is split 3-way - 1 goes to the carb/manifold joint, another to the air mixture control valve, the 3rd goes to the backside of the fuel cock. &amp;nbsp;Any of these may be leaking, or the air mix valve may be having issues and can probably be removed provided you fix the vacuum lines to compensate.
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hope this helps!</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/virago-running-on-one-cylinder-tp20666994p25804393.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25803061</id>
	<title>Re: Stator</title>
	<published>2009-10-08T07:21:55Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-08T07:21:55Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">There isn't &amp;nbsp;a problem with the Stators on the 920's that I am aware of. There is a procedure in the Clymer's Service Manual for checking the stator with an ohm meter. Set the meter to Ohms x 1 scale. Check each white wire against the other. The reading should be 0.5 ohms, if it is anything else, check the wire from the coil to the terminal and the terminal itself and make sure they are OK. Then take one lead of the meter to a good frame/engine ground and check each of the white wires. You should not get a reading. If you do get continuity, then the stator is bad and must be replaced.
&lt;br&gt;The battery light is powered by a sensor in one of the cells in the battery. If the battery is low on water, the light will come on. It doesn't indicate a low charge in the battery, just insufficient water in that cell. You could also have a bad sensor. Check the sensor wiring if your battery is full of water.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Stator-tp25796787p25803061.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25803008</id>
	<title>Re: Virago running on one cylinder</title>
	<published>2009-10-08T07:08:20Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-08T07:08:20Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Thanks,
&lt;br&gt;I have used him before... and recommended him many times.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Virago-running-on-one-cylinder-tp25780595p25803008.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25796787</id>
	<title>Stator</title>
	<published>2009-10-07T17:37:13Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-07T17:37:13Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>Pop of 6</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">I have an 82 XV920 which I have had about a month. The battery light is on. When I checked the stator by the book I should have had .5 ohms across the three white wires but I had 0. &amp;nbsp;So I got another stator off of E Bay. &amp;nbsp;I tested the stator before I installed it and it also had 0 ohms. &amp;nbsp;Being that I had already had the original stator off the bike I installed the new one. The battery light is still on. Is there a problem with the stators on these bikes and if not what else would cause the battery light to come on? </content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Stator-tp25796787p25796787.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25787513</id>
	<title>Re: Need help with removing the rear wheel of an 84 yamaha xv1000</title>
	<published>2009-10-07T07:18:00Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-07T07:18:00Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>bstig60</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">Probably is corrosion, so penetrating oil should solve the problem. Put it on and let it set for several hours and then reapply. Use a brass drift pin to drive the shaft out if you can find one so you won't hurt the threads on the shaft. Once you have the shaft out, you should be able to remove the brake assembly and slide out the wheel from the shaft drive. Don't forget the spacer on the left side of the wheel. Clean the shaft and lubricate well with lithium grease or some other good quality water resistant grease before reinstalling.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/Need-help-with-removing-the-rear-wheel-of-an-84-yamaha-xv1000-tp25770722p25787513.html" />
</entry>

<entry>
	<id>tag:old.nabble.com,2006:post-25783495</id>
	<title>Re: 1998 Virago 1100</title>
	<published>2009-10-07T02:39:14Z</published>
	<updated>2009-10-07T02:39:14Z</updated>
	<author>
		<name>pofarm</name>
	</author>
	<content type="html">The running light is, most likely, a bad bulb or socket. The headlight and instrument lights turn off when you push the start button and come back on when you release it. The start switch is probably sticking and not returning all the way when released. Try gently pulling out on the button and see if the lights come back on. If they do, get some contact cleaner or WD40 and spray into the switch while working it in and out to free it up.</content>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://old.nabble.com/1998-Virago-1100-tp25199943p25783495.html" />
</entry>

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